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Herbal and pure natural skin treatment has very ancient origins. Some literature data showed that some formulas had been documented in 8000 – 4000 B.C. in the Asian region and 3000 – 2000 B.C. in the Mediterranean. Well, our ancestors did not know how formulas worked (mechanisms of action). Still, they were experts in creating excellent herbal and pure natural skin care products. Until the beginning of the 20th century, there were no apparent differences and proper explanations between cosmetic formulations’ so-called active and inactive ingredients and what and how those components worked. Therefore, before diving further into natural skincare and cosmetics, we must explore what the skin can and cannot do using natural skin care products, cosmetics, and cosmeceuticals.
Unfortunately, pure natural skincare products are not available in retail stores. Firstly, the shelf-life is significantly shorter than semi-natural or synthetic products. Natural skin care products are available predominantly as a custom order. Their production is much smaller (small-scale) than other commercially available products. The stability of the formula is significantly shorter than other commercially available products. However, nothing is wrong with nicely formulated semi-natural skincare products, now a trend. Almost every manufacturer has a vast panel of semi-natural skincare products with different percentages of natural ingredients in the final product.
I can imagine how much money you spent searching for ideal skincare products for yourself; even though you often change, it still does not meet your skincare needs. In the process of searching, please take the next several steps; it might help you. Firstly, consider your skin care needs; what is your skin pH? All of us are utterly different, even regarding our skin care needs. Do you have dry skin, oily skin, sensitive skin, or even a combination? What is your age? What is the pH of the water you use for your hygiene? What is your current diet, and what medications and supplements do you take daily? Do you have any dermatological issues or allergies? In that case, first of all, it might be good to consult your dermatologist. Ask a formulator, good beauty advisor – consultant, or aesthetician for a preliminary consultation, then search for an excellent cleanser, serum, and facial cream (for example – facial skincare) for your skincare needs.
What to look at first? Try to read a small print part, “ingredients.” You will get essential information regarding the formulation and ingredients of a particular skin care product. The next step would be to check ingredients in the cosmetic database Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) – https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review was established in 1976 by the industry trade association (then the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, now the Personal Care Products Council) with the support of the U.S. Food and Drug Administration and the Consumer Federation of America. Although funded by the Council, CIR, the Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety, and the review process are independent from the Council and the cosmetics industry. CIR and the Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety operate under a set of procedures (https://www.cir-safety.org/about).
Human skin is an external body organ that predominantly has a protective function for our muscles and organs
The surface is about 2m2, and the weight is about 10 kilograms. It is a multilayered organ with three distinctive layers: the epidermis providing waterproofing and protection against infections; the dermis, a connective tissue hosting hair bulbs and glands; and the hypodermis, an adipose tissue covering muscles, bones, and ligaments. The functions of the skin are numerous and astonishing. But how can skin care products, cosmetics, and cosmeceuticals pass all these barriers and maintain the normal physiology and homeostasis of the skin?
The skin ages as all our body organs. Unfortunately, it is a degenerative process affecting all skin layers. Skin aging is defined as a loss of elasticity, the reduction of local vascularization, and the appearance of lines and wrinkles on the skin surface. The skin matrix deteriorates; additionally, there is the process of lower deposition, faster degradation of collagen, and loss of the elastic properties of elastin. Well, that is not all. A slower renewal of cell layers in the epidermis also occurs, causing loss of underlying fat and oil and skin naturally thinning and substantially drying. Usually, our skin ages and loses many crucial functions from its normal physiology and homeostasis (balance). Free radicals production rapidly increases, and it causes a substantial imbalance between two vital roles: the oxidative cell processes and the antioxidant defense.
Consequently, it leads to an excessive breakdown of collagen. This degenerative process is one of the critical causes of wrinkle formation and permanent damage to the skin. Only fine lines can be restored using skin care products, cosmetics, and cosmeceuticals. Deep wrinkles require more invasive and radical treatments. Many goods and procedures promise to reduce wrinkles. However, some do little or nothing, like the products that claim they reduce “the appearance of fine lines,” meaning they don’t cut the lines themselves. It is complex, but the most important is offering your facial, hand, and body skin proper everyday care. Skin aging alters the normal physiology of the skin and its homeostasis, so skin care products have to do a lot to “fight” and “tricking” those barriers, natural or newly developed by the aging process.
Today, each right and complete formula is a mixture that includes one or more vehicles and one or more active ingredients. Generally, the formula will work efficiently and adequately if the active ingredients penetrate the skin. The correct vehicle selection and use play an important role in designing and formulating the skin care product. Pharmaceutical (dermatological) preparations aim to cure skin alterations and diseases and return the skin to homeostasis and normal physiology. Cosmetic formulations are not curative; they strive to maintain skin homeostasis (balancing the normal physiological processes) and possibly to prevent degenerative processes in the skin (facial, hand/body skin, and scalp). What are cosmeceuticals? Probably you hear that term almost every day. It is like a hybrid, and this formula aims to enhance the skin’s beauty. How? Some ingredients in a cosmeceutical formula can modify skin functionality, and potentially it has health-related functions (“healing” properties) or benefits to your skin, either facial or hand/body skin or scalp.
Who is the skin care product’s messenger, and why are they important?
The vehicle or vehicles should be able to penetrate the stratum corneum of the epidermis (our first layer of the skin) and deliver the active ingredients to lower epidermal, dermal, and subdermal places. It sounds like each skin care product should have some messenger; yes, a good messenger. According to modern cosmetic science and results in the research of green principles in the formulation of natural skin care products, botanical sources provide almost any kind of possible vehicle. That also includes surfactants, emulsifiers, oils, and types of butter and waxes. It will provide your skin with occlusive, smoothing, firming, moisturizing, soothing, and even conditioning effects. You have probably heard about moisturization as one of the most important things skin care can offer you. Yes, it is critical and essential for your skin. However, there are some crucial facts that we should take into consideration. Occlusives, such as some carrier oils derived from herbs and botanicals, make some shield on the outer part of the stratum corneum under which water is solely trapped. Humectants, like glycerin or honey, directly draw water from the surrounding area into the stratum corneum.
What about other ingredients and parts of the proper formulation? Emollients are ingredients added to the skin care formula to naturally soften and smooth your facial or hand/body skin and scalp. Surfactants are also necessary, but apothecary masters know this formulation part can be tricky. That is not a problem in natural skin care products. Still, artificial skin care products can be a huge problem because they can cause serious side effects. This is because they have one crucial task: to solubilize lipophilic active ingredients in the formula if added to the water phase of the formula. As a result, they promote lipid absorption in the stratum corneum.
Why are penetration enhancers crucial in formulating natural skin care products?
Penetration enhancers are a paramount part of the right skin care formula. Why? They act on the level of stratum corneum, and they naturally reduce the skin permeability barrier. It sounds like “the gate opener” or “the key.” They usually disrupt tightly packed lipid regions of your skin. Does it matter? Indeed, it will increase hydration and some additional beneficial effects on your skin and the effectiveness of skin care products, cosmetics, and cosmeceuticals. In every apothecary workshop, it is a great secret that penetration enhancer agents or agents will be added to the formula. Just for your information, unfortunately, we do not have a massive panel of penetration enhancer actors in the formulation of pure natural skin care products.
Would you like a straightforward answer? It would be, yes! According to the new literature data published in the cosmetic science and herbal principles of the formulation of cosmetics, skin care products, and cosmeceuticals, marigold/calendula has three times more potent antimicrobial effects compared with an artificial chemicals such as parabens which you can find in commercial brand names as a preservative. I do not want to “talk” about parabens; they are not a part of pure natural skin care products. Basil exhibited substantial antibacterial effects, as well as ginkgo and mango. Mostly, apothecary masters who formulate natural skin care products stick with highly concentrated rosemary oil and a high concentration of vitamin E as an antioxidant. But certainly, there is more, such as burdock carrying a solid antiseptic and detoxifying effect. Some lichens have a strong disinfectant effect or even watercress, which you can buy almost in every grocery store. Inflammation can be another problem, but some botanicals, such as lemon balm and yeast, can carry substantial anti-inflammatory effects.
What to do about wrinkles?
People mostly think that one of the primary goals of using skin care products, cosmetics, and cosmeceuticals is to get rid of wrinkles as soon as possible and at any cost. As a pathophysiologist, I am trying to explain to people and somehow “console” them, but it does not go very well. The cosmetic and plastic surgery “industry” promises a lot. Still, the results are not as impressive as we can expect, or the results are excellent and “wow” solely for a short period.
How about aging gracefully and wisely, trying to slow the dramatic and rapid process of skin aging as much as possible? By providing the skin with all the necessary factors to keep close to normal skin physiology and maintaining skin homeostasis as much as possible in some acceptable balance.
Although wrinkles can signify wisdom (gray hair as well), or at least some level of maturity, there is no question that even newly born infants also have wrinkles and fine lines. The problem is more complex than it looks! I want one human psychologist to help me with their comments. The genuine concern that most of us have is that certain types of wrinkling are associated with aging. Aging in our current “pop and rock & roll” culture is not considered positive. Most customers complain about the cost of so-called “anti-wrinkle” creams, lotions, and serums/elixirs. The name “anti-aging” would probably be more appropriate. Some botanicals, herbs, lichens, algae, and mushrooms can somehow alleviate the visibility of fine lines. Still, I think they are mainly doing some other work: to recover the lost physiological processes in the damaged skin. Aloe vera undoubtedly increases collagen synthesis and was scientifically approved; acerola is rich in vitamin C and improves remineralization, and green tea does it too. Hops flowers can help treat aged skin, too, significantly improving the youthful appearance of the facial skin. The panel of medicinal mushrooms nicely incorporated into natural or semi-natural skincare products will provide your skin with many “remedies,” such as reishi mushrooms with anti-aging, antioxidant, and antityrosinase properties, repairing skin damage and protection from U.V. and free radicals. Nicely formulated natural or semi-natural skincare products with cordyceps, chaga, maitake, shitake mushrooms, and reishi mushrooms will provide your skin with proper care.
Some ingredients in natural skin care products carry the strong (scientifically approved) properties of stimulating collagen synthesis, anti-aging properties, detoxifying and cleansing properties, creating an effect of gentle exfoliation, and balancing the normal physiology of skin homeostasis. The skin epidermis and its array of appendages undergo ongoing renewal by homeostasis. Stem cells are in the epidermis and are crucial in maintaining tissue homeostasis by providing new cells to replace those constantly lost during tissue turnover or following an injury. Different resident skin stem cell pools contribute to the maintenance and repair of the various epidermal tissues of the skin, including the inter-follicular epidermis, hair follicles, and sebaceous glands. Interestingly, the fundamental mechanisms and signaling pathways that orchestrate epithelial morphogenesis in the skin are reused during adult life to regulate skin homeostasis.
Homeostasis in the skin is fueled by stem cells in epithelial tissues, which replace the keratinocytes lost through normal differentiation and tissue turnover or cell death due to the damage incurred following injury. Recent studies in modern cosmetic and dermatology science have begun to explain some of the mysteries of these unique “fountains of youth,” which reside in different compartments of the skin and underlie the remarkable resilience of the skin.
Pure natural, organic skin care products, cosmetics, and cosmeceuticals – are they 100% safe and without possible harmful side effects?
Thus, keep your “fountains of youth” functional as long as possible!
The simple answer would be no! It is objective and professional. Firstly, suppose the natural and organic formula is improperly and unsafely formulated. In that case, it can cause harmful side effects like any other semi-natural or synthetic product. However, that is not all; some natural ingredients have potential allergens. It is essential to state that not all people are allergic. Still, some adverse reactions are possible, as with any other skincare product. Thus, for the prior application, always do testing, and apply a small amount on the skin under your elbow.
The natural materials that exhibited adverse effects on health are the following:
Chamomilla recutita extract – Chamomile (12) (H304 H315 H317 H412), Citrus aurantium dulcis oil – Orange (5) (H226 H304 H315 H317 H400 H410), Citrus medica limonum oil – Lemon (2)(H226 H304 H315 H317 H400 H410), Daucus carota juice – Wild Carrot (1) (H226 H304 H317 H319 H411), Lavandula angustifolia oil – Lavender (5) (H304 H315 H317 H412), Melissa officinalis oil – Lemon balm (1) (H315 H317 H318 H412), Pelargonium graveolens oil (1) (H304 H315 H317 H318 H412), Ribes nigrum extract- Blackcurrent (1) (H304 H317 H411), Rosa damascena extract – Rose (3) (H226 H315 H317 H318 H341 H351 H412), Rosmarinus officinalis extract – Rosemary (5) (H226 H304 H317 H373 H411), Salvia officinalis extract – Sage (5) (H226 H304 H315 H317 H373 H400 H410), Triticum vulgare germ extract – Wheat (1) (H317), Urtica urens extract – Nettle (1) (H360)
Natural materials exhibited physical adverse effects:
Camelia sinensis extract – Tea plant (10) (H225), Coffea arabica extract – coffee (1) (H226), Ginkgo biloba extract – Ginkgo (1) (H226), Panax ginseng extract – Ginseng (2) (H226), Paullinia cupana extract- Guarana (2) (H226), Prunus armeniaca kernel oil – Apricot (6) (H226), Sambucus nigra extract – Elderberry (1) (H225), Tilia cordata extract – Linden (1) (H226)
Chamomilla recucita oil Linalool 0,4%, limonene 1%
Citrus aurantium dulcis oil Limonene 95%, citral 1%
Citrus medica limonum oil Citral 3%, limonene 56–78%
Cupressus sempervirens oil Limonene 5–7%, linalool 1–3% other manufacturer: limonene 14%, linalool 0,8%
Cymbopogon martini oil Geraniol 66–84%, linalool <4%, citral <2%, farnesol < 2%, limonene <1% other manufacturer: limonene <22%
Daucus carota oil Linalool 1–2%, limonene 1–2%, citral 1–3%, geraniol 1–3%
Eucalyptus globulus oil Limonene 7–10%
Juniperus communis fruit oil Limonene 1–3%
Lavandula angustifolia oil Limonene <1%, linalool 40%
Mentha arvensis oil Limonene 3–4%
Pelargonium graveolens oil Citronellol 30–40%, geraniol 12,5–15%, linalool 7–10%, citral 1–3%, limonene 1–3%
Rosa damascena flower oil Citronellol 25–30%, geraniol 20–25%, linalool 1–3%, eugenol 1–3%, citral 1–3%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil Linalool 0,8%, limonene 6%
According to the “26 allergens” rule, these 26 allergens should be included in the declaration of cosmetic products if their presence in the product is above 0.001% in the products that remain on the skin (creams, lotions, serums, etc.) and 0.01% in products that can be washed off with water (soaps, gels, shampoos, etc.). This information on the product declaration is intended to inform the consumer about the potential risk of hypersensitivity reactions. For example, many deodorant consumers have a problem with contact dermatitis caused by one or more allergens on the list of 26 allergens (Klaschka U., 2012, Uter W., 2013, Ortiz K.J., 2004, Rastogi S.C., 1998).
The Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009 lists the 26 most-known allergenic substances.
Anise alcohol – Honey, essential oils of Anise, Tomatoes, Tahiti Vanilla
Benzyl alcohol – Peru Balsam, Tolu Balsam, Essential oils of Jasmin, Apricot, Almond, Apple, Asparagus, Banana, Black Currant, Blackberry
Benzyl benzoate – Peru Balsam, Tolu Balsam, Essential oils of Jasmin, Ylang-Ylang
Benzyl cinnamate – Peru Balsam, Tolu Balsam, Copahu
Benzyl salicylate – Propolis
Cinnamal – Essential oils of Cinnamon, hyacinth, Patchouli, Nutmeg
Cinnamyl alcohol – Hyacinth
Citral – Essential oils of Lemon, Essential oils of Orange peel, Essential oils of eucalyptus, Grapefruit, Orange, Celeris, Apricot, Blackcurrant, Grape, Kiwi, Mango, Ginger, Melon, Plum, Raspberry, Rose (ruža)
Citronellol – essential oils of Lemon grass, Essential oils of Ceylon, Apple, Apricot, Cassis, Blackberry, Blueberry, Orange, Passion Fruit, Peach, Rose
Coumarin – Woodruff, Flouves, Sweet clover, Angelique, Berce
Eugenol – Essential oils of Clove, Allspice, Bay (Myrcia acris), Avens, Ceylon cinnamon, Laurel, Cistus, labdanifere, Basil sassafras, Basil Java, Cassie, Sweet flag, Carnation, Boldo, Cascarille, Galangal, Bay leaves, Nutmeg, Pale rose, ylang-ylang, marjoram, calamus, camphor, lemongrass, patchouli
Farnesol – Essential oils of rose, Neroli, Ylang-ylang, Lime tree, Tolu Balsam
Geraniol – Rose oil, orange, Palmarosa, thyme, verbena, neroli, lemongrass, geranium, hyssop, laurel, Lavender, Mandarine, Melissa, Nutmeg, Myrtle, Apple, Apricot, Black Cranberries, Blackcurrant, Blackberry, Coriander, Ginger, Nutmeg, Thyme, Geranium, Rose, Palmarosa, Ylang-Ylang
Isoeugenol – Essential Oils of citronella, Essential Oils of Ceylon, Essential Oils of ylang ylang
Limonene – Essential oils of: lemon, Dill, Common juniper, Orange, Verbena, Neroli, Niaouli, Melaleuca, Lemon balsam, Peppermint, Nutmeg, Myrrh, Angelique, Aspic, Badiane, Bergamot, Mandarin, Bigaradier, Caraway, Celery, Lavender, Lime
Linalool – Essential oils of: Thyme, Lavender, Pine, Laurel, Sour orange, marjoram, peppermint, lemon, orange, thyme, ylang-ylang, verbena, myrtle, neroli, Coriander, Geranium, Lime, Lemon balsam, Nutmeg, Lemongrass, basil, bergamot, Rosewood, Banana, blackberry, Bean, Blueberry, Apple, Apricot, Artichoke, Thyme, Rose, Palmarosa
Evernia prunastri (Oakmoss) – Oakmoss extract
Evernia furfuracea (Tree Moss) – Tree moss extract
To summarize all information above, potential allergies could be induced by a high percentage of linalool, limonene, isoeugenol, geraniol, eugenol, and many others mentioned above in natural, semi-natural, and synthetic skincare products. Mostly they are fragrance notes for the final formulation of the skincare products.
What would be one wise piece of advice for you? Find a good apothecary master, do not hesitate to ask questions, and share with your pharmacist your intention to use a purely natural and organic skincare product, mainly if you use multiple medications daily. Some serious interactions can be induced in this kind of scenario. Be careful in choosing the so-called natural/organic skin care products, ask for samples, and request a consultation with the selected apothecary master regarding the products. There is one more thing! You cannot buy 100% natural and 100% organic skin care products in retail, grocery, and pharmacy stores. Usually, those making 100% natural and organic skin care products have minimal scale production, often by customer order, and the final formulation usually requires 2-3 days to process. Although we always have all primary solutions, extracts, oils, and necessary ingredients in stock, we do not have many final products. Additionally, share with your apothecary master your allergy status if you are allergic to certain nuts, herbs, or botanicals and what your skin condition is/are. Even though most of the traditional apothecary masters who are making 100% natural skin care products already have documented facts about the safety of their products, we always test finished products.
What are some important conclusions?
Botanical and natural sources can provide all kinds of elements for vehiculating active ingredients in natural skin care formulas/products and enhancing their permeation through the skin. Natural skin care products made of natural ingredients such as herbs, botanicals, lichens, algae, and mushrooms ensure desirable biocompatibility (a crucial fact compared with commercially available brands), low irritancy, and optimal partitioning of permeants in the skin.
Age gracefully and wisely and try to maintain your “fountains of youth” in your skin as long as you can, effectively and naturally, using natural skin care products, cosmetics, and cosmeceuticals!
Respectfully,
Holistic Healthful